Skunks Part III

Skunks Part III

Exclusion
As with many other vertebrate pests, the best solution for skunk problems beneath porches or buildings is to screen or block them out. Close off all potential entrances or openings under houses, garden tool sheds, mobile homes, porches, and decks with 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth. The advantage of using the small mesh is that it will also exclude rats and house mice if installed correctly. Skunks will work hard to get into a desirable denning space, so take care to make fittings good and tight. If there is soil underneath the potential entrances, bury the wire at least 6 inches to discourage skunks from digging under.

Once skunks have made their home beneath a building, the problem is a little more difficult because you have to be sure the animals have left before blocking the opening. One way to determine this is to sprinkle a smooth, 1/8-inch thick layer of flour just in front of the point of entrance to form a tracking patch. Examine the tracking patch soon after dark; the presence of footprints will indicate that the animal has left and the opening can be closed. However, blocking the entrance is more problematic if there are several young left behind. If you are not sure that all the skunks beneath a building have left, a one-way, outward-swinging gate can be fashioned that will allow any remaining skunks to leave but not to re-enter. This gate can be constructed from 1/2-inch mesh hardware cloth hinged at the top of the frame and left loose on the other three sides. It must be larger than the opening so that it can only swing outward. Skunks will push it open to leave but will not be able to push it inward to re-enter. This is ineffective, of course, if the kits are not yet mobile; kits not yet able to walk may have to be removed by other means. The placement of one or more floodlights beneath the building facing outward through the skunk’s entry point will often assist in driving them away from a location.

Trapping
Skunks can be caught with an enclosed cage-type, live-catch trap. Plastic box traps are superior to wire traps because they are completely enclosed, thus reducing the risk of getting sprayed while removing the trapped animal from the site. If a wire live trap is used, cover the back end with an old blanket when setting the trap. The blanket serves two purposes. First, it provides shelter for the skunk. Secondly, it allows the trapper to slowly cover the entire trap once the skunk is captured. Skunks are less stressed when in dark environments and thus are less likely to spray. Be careful when placing the blanket on the back end of the trap so that it does not interfere with the trigger mechanism. Once the trap has been completely covered with the blanket, the trap can be relocated to a carbon dioxide gas chamber for euthanasia. If in a remote area, shooting can also be used to euthanize the trapped skunk. However, skunks usually spray when shot, so shooting may not be the best approach. Note that drowning is not an acceptable or legal form of euthanasia. Once euthanized, skunks can be double-bagged and disposed of in the garbage.

Traps can be baited with a variety of foods including sardines, canned cat food, tuna, or bacon. Sweeter foods also work (e.g., peanut butter, apples, melon rinds, marshmallows, doughnuts, etc.) and may be less likely to capture cats.

Individuals who have no experience trapping skunks should hire a professional wildlife control operator. Professionals have the experience and all the necessary equipment to trap and dispatch the animal. An experienced trapper is also much less apt to be sprayed, an event to be avoided if at all possible. Skunks cannot be relocated without a permit, and because of the potential for rabies it is unlikely the California Department of Fish and Wildlife will issue one.

Other Control Methods
Burrow fumigants such as gas or smoke cartridges may be used in rural areas if the burrows used by skunks can be located and are not under or near buildings. They are not generally recommended for use in residential areas because of the risk of fire and penetration of the gas into buildings. These cartridges are ignited and pushed into the skunk’s burrow. The burrow is then sealed off with soil and packed tightly to prevent the toxic and asphyxiating smoke from escaping. Follow the product instructions carefully.

In rural areas, where firearms can be used and it is safe to do so, skunks may be shot. Since they may spray in the process, be selective in the location chosen for this control method.

There are no registered toxicants for poisoning skunks. Poison baits sold for the control of rodents should never be used in an attempt to remove skunks. The penalty for such pesticide misuse can be substantial, and illegal poisoning usually comes to light as a result of the accidental poisoning of someone’s pet.

A few commercial products are available for repelling skunks, but unfortunately they are not very effective. A rag soaked with ordinary household ammonia has been used with some reported success as a home remedy repellent for driving skunks from beneath buildings. However, ammonia and other repellents with a strong odor should not be placed under an occupied building since fumes can enter the interior space, especially if air is drawn from beneath the building by a furnace or climate control system.

Odor Removal
There are several options for odor removal. The chemical neutroleum-alpha is one of the most useful neutralizers for removing the unpleasant skunk scent on furniture or in buildings, but this material and products containing it are not readily available. There are also other commercial products sold for neutralizing or masking skunk odor. If you cannot find such products easily, contact a professional wildlife control operator who may be able to provide neutroleum-alpha or can tell you where it can be purchased. Do not use neutroleum-alpha on pets or people. If your dog or cat has confronted a skunk, call your veterinarian to determine current recommendations for washing the animal to get rid of skunk odor.

Skunk Bites
Rabies, an infectious disease caused by a virus, is found in the saliva of infected animals. It affects only mammals and is transmitted most commonly by a bite. People can survive the bite of a rabid animal but only if medical attention is received in time. A physician should promptly attend to ALL skunk bites, no matter how minor; and the local health department should be notified of the incident.

Skunks that seem tame or listless and wander about in an unusual manner during daylight hours should be treated with great caution because this behavior is symptomatic of rabies. Also, if they exhibit no fear of people or pets and show some aggressive behavior, chances are quite high that they are rabid.

If you live in an area where skunks occur, be sure your dogs and cats are routinely vaccinated against rabies. Some dogs will confront skunks whenever they get an opportunity. Even though they suffer when they get sprayed, some dogs never learn. People with a high risk of occupational exposure to rabies should also consult with their physician about the possible benefit of being vaccinated. If you’re experiencing a skunk problem now contact a wildlife professional.